The retro French hair pin is making a comeback, and it’s easy to see why. This two-pronged hair accessory can be used to create a range of effortlessly chic looks, from classic buns to half-up, half-down hairstyles.
To help you stay on trend, we explain how to use a French hair pin in a way that actually feels easy, breaking down the technique, common mistakes, and simple styles that work for different hair lengths and textures. Say bonjour to minimal effort for maximum impact!
What is a French Hair Pin?
A French hair pin is a U-shaped pin with two prongs. It’s designed to hold hair in place without elastics, using tension and placement rather than tight pulling.
They’re usually made of durable metals (we’re talking stainless steel, zinc alloy, and brass) or high-quality cellulose acetate (that’s a biodegradable material derived from cotton and wood pulp).
What Makes French Hair Pins Different
While French hair pins might look like giant bobby pins, they actually work a little differently. They’re designed to hold larger sections of hair and create soft, effortless styles with less tension on the scalp.
How to Use a French Hair Pin (The Basics)
Remember those girls in high school who could twist their hair up and pin it in place using just a pencil and the natural tension of their hair? The classic French hair pin twist is basically the elevated — and long-lasting — version of that.
Here’s how to put in a French hair pin the easy way.
The Twist & Flip Technique
To create the look, gather your hair into a low ponytail, then twist it around your fingers. Next, insert the pin against the direction of the twist. Then, flip the pin inwards towards the scalp to lock the twist securely in place. And voila, it really is that easy.
Placement Is What Makes It Hold
Just remember, the secret to long-lasting French hair pin style lies in how the pin is inserted. For a super secure hold, you want to anchor it close to the scalp and catch a small section of hair underneath.
Easy French Hair Pin Styles to Try
Famous for creating effortless, low-maintenance styles, French hair pins look polished but not overdone. The best part? They work on long, medium, and short hair. You just need to pick the right style for your hair type.
With that in mind, here’s a step-by-step of how to use French hair pins to create a classic bun, a chignon, and a half-up, half-down look.
Classic French Pin Bun
The ultimate soft, everyday look, this simple twisted bun secured with a French pin is a classic for a reason.
You can even adapt this French pin tutorial to suit your mood. Keep it relaxed and “messy” for a brunch-with-the-girls look, or create a smooth, slicked-back effect for your next corporate event.
Step 1
Gather your hair at the nape of your neck like you’re starting a low ponytail. You can use your fingers for a relaxed look or a boar bristle brush for a super sleek finish.
Step 2
Twist the hair upward until it begins to coil into a bun shape. You should only need one finger to do this, though thicker hair may require two.
Step 3
Hold the bun in place with one hand and insert the French pin against the twist.
Step 4
Flip the pin inward toward your scalp and slide it through the bun to secure it. For best results, you want to anchor it close to the scalp and catch a small section of hair underneath.
Step 5
Adjust any loose pieces for a soft, effortless finish. We love pulling out a few face-framing strands or deliberately dropping a Bridgetonesque curl down the side of the neck.
French Pin Chignon for a Polished Finish
Perfect for formal events like weddings or prom, a low chignon secured with a French pin just screams refined style.
Here’s how to use a French pin to create a chignon.
Step 1
Gather hair into a low section at the nape of your neck. Because the goal is elevated elegance, go ahead and reach for that boar bristle brush for this part.
Step 2
Next, use one or two fingers to gently twist the hair into a tight, low bun or fold it under into a chignon shape. Make sure it isn’t too tight, though. It shouldn’t pull at your scalp.
Step 3
Hold the bun with one hand, then insert the French pin horizontally into one side of the bun with the other.
Step 4
Flip the pin inward and slide it through the center to anchor it close to the scalp. Done right, that bad boy should stay put, even if you spend hours on the dance floor.
Step 5
To really take the look to the next level, apply a small amount of hair oil or serum to your fingertips and gently smooth the top layer for a polished, refined finish.
Half Up French Pin Styles
PSA to all the shorter and layered-hair girlies who’ve given up on trying to learn how to use a French hair pin: ditch the low bun. Instead, opt for a half-up look where you just secure the top section of your hair.
Trust us, if you want to know how to use French pins on short hair, this is it.
Step 1
Gather the top section of your hair from the temple's back. If you’re worried the hairstyle won’t hold, you can tease this hair or apply a texturizing powder.
Step 2
Lightly twist that top section of hair toward the back of your head.
Step 3
Hold the twist in place and insert the French pin against the twist.
Step 4
Flip the pin inward and push it through to secure.
Step 5
Let the rest of your hair fall naturally for an easy, everyday style. You can also straighten it for a sleek finish, or add beach curls for an evening look.
Tips on Using French Pins Based On Different Hair Textures
“My hair is too thick for French pins.” “The French hair pin falls out of my fine hair.” We hear you. And yes, hair thickness and texture can change how a French pin works.
But make a few small adjustments, and we’re sure it will work for you. Here’s how to use a French hair pin on different hair textures
Making French Hair Pins Work on Fine Hair
Because fine hair is so, well, fine, there isn’t always a lot of hair for the pin to grip on to. Don’t worry, though, you just need to create tighter twists and use smaller sections so the pin has more grip and doesn’t slip out.
You can also tease your hair, add a texturizing spray, or apply texturizing powder to create a grippier surface that will help keep the pin in place.
How to Use French Pins on Thick Hair
You’d be surprised how well French pins work on thick hair. Just make sure you twist your hair firmly and anchor the pin into a larger section of hair.
Top tip: If you’re still struggling, use a discreet hair tie to tie your hair into a loose ponytail before following the above French pin tutorial steps as normal. The extra support from the hair tie might be just what you need to make your look last.
Using French Hair Pins on Curly and Textured Hair
Don’t be put off from using a French hair pin if you have curly or textured hair. Your tresses are actually perfect for this hair accessory!
All that beautiful natural texture holds the pin so well, so embrace those curls and keep away from any overly-smoothing products.
Common Mistakes When Using a French Hair Pin
If you’ve checked out loads of “how to use a hair pin” videos on TikTok and you’re still struggling, don’t worry. It does take a little getting used to. But once you get the hang of it, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it.
It’s also worth noting that most issues come down to technique rather than the pin itself, so here are some common mistakes to avoid.
Not Twisting the Hair Enough
The French hair pin relies on tension to stay put. Fail to create enough of it, and the pin won’t have anything to grip onto.
Inserting the Pin in One Direction Only
We’ve all done it: tried to use a French hair pin by just stabbing it through our hair. But the technique actually involves a few more steps.
You want to stab, hook, and flip. That final flip motion is what locks the style in place. Skip it, and the pin will just slide out.
When to Use a French Hair Pin Instead of Other Accessories
French hair pins are ideal when you want a softer, more effortless look than tighter styles created with elastics or clips.
If you want a fun, playful hairstyle embellished with lots of accessories, a French hair pin probably isn’t for you. But if you want a simple, elegant style that feels relaxed yet refined — and can be put up in seconds — a French hair pin is a great choice.
For Low Effort, Polished Styles
French hair pins styles feel put together without looking overly structured. Picture Audrey Hepburn. That’s as close to effortless elegance as you can get.
For Less Tension on the Hair
We’ve all worn too-tight a ponytail and experienced that nerve-pinching headache, right? Well, you don’t really get that with French hair pin styles.
Because they don’t rely on tight pulling, pins feel more comfortable for all-day wear compared to some other styling tools. Headache? What headache?
Now you know how to use a French pin, get your own! Shop TELETIES French Hair Pins.
French Hair Pin FAQs
How do you use a French hair pin for beginners?
When first learning how to use a French hair pin, start with the basics: a classic French twist.
Gather your hair into a low ponytail, then twist it around your fingers. Insert the pin against the direction of the twist, then flip the pin inwards towards the scalp to lock the twist securely in place.
Can you use a French hair pin on short hair?
Absolutely! Half-up French hair pin styles are perfect for short hair.
Why won’t my French hair pin stay in place?
If your French hair pin won’t stay in place, try twisting your hair more to create extra tension. Then, stab, hook, and flip the pin to secure. That final flip motion is especially important because it sets the style in place.
Are French hair pins better for your hair?
French hair pins hold your hair in place using tension and careful placement. They’re a better option than other hair accessories that rely on tight pulling.